Repair and Document Pool Chlorinator Compu-Chlor M140

Failed Salt Water Chlorinator Cell prompted me to document the circuit in my M140 chlorinator. Pretty simple…

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I was able to rig up a test for the power supply using a couple of #44 bulbs and a resistor.

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Yup,  working fine.  Interestingly: the failure mode for the old cell is that it appears to have a “diode” like short between the center plate and the sense pin.  I can only speculate that the calcium build up has caused this to act as a “diode”?

SRC is S2065J

Diodes are: 1N5404

This unit can pack out 18AMPS.  (Rated at 14A)

 

Medieval Madness Pinball – blowing fuses F501 and F502

Working on a MM with fuses blowing on the sound / DMD board.

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I returned the board to the workshow, but had trouble replicating the fault.  I did not have a dual tracking power-supply to power the audio amplifiers, so I was testing with current limited single supply…  no fault.

I finally jury-rigged two power supplies to provide both the positive and negative rails and bingo!  We have a short.

The TDA2030 was short circuit between the +ve and -ve rails.

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These parts are no longer stocked by the mainstream electronic suppliers, but thankfully are readily available on eBay.

I ordered a new chip, waited the usual 4 weeks for delivery, and this board is now back and operational.

I did a little clean-up of the high-voltage on the DMD driver for this board.  Check out the soldering the last repairer left…

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Bloody hell…  hats off for actually getting this to work!

Any-how, I felt obliged to clean this up a little without spending too much time on it…

 

World Cup Soccer – Pinball repair #1

Working on a Bally World Cup Soccer.  This machine is resetting often.  This has got progressively worse.  The machine powers on, but every time the flipper buttons are pressed, the machine resets.

Using a Digital multi-meter, I confirmed the 5v was good at 5.05.  However, when I switched to AC, the reading was showing more than 0.5V ripple. The power driver board was returned to my shop for an overhaul.

This board was in very good condition.  I note that the 5V rectifier and capacitor had already been changed, but with the “plastic” 3504 style rectifier.  I replaced this with a 3506 (full metal shell).

Put a new capacitor in C5 (15,000 uF), BR2 and C4.   I have found C4 to be often neglected in boards I have come across.

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As usual, I took the time to clean the board and inspect the solder joints.  There should be no reason we can’t leave the board with solder as good (or better) than the factory.

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This picture show using a illuminated loupe to inspect the soldering (repair) on the rectifier.

Board was returned to the game and is now working fine!

 

Except….  on the first play test, the Goalie (plastic) broke in two….